Saga of a Bodice

So before starting a project, it is advised that you check your fabric stash rather than assuming you have what you think. Why? Because "I'm pretty certain I have almost two yards" quickly becomes "Crap, I only have chunks of fabric that are maybe a yard."

Remaining chunks of flocked taffeta from the prior projects

Yeah, and the brown shantung fabric that the fabric store usually carries? Guess what they discontinued a couple months ago? So all I have is maybe 2/3 of a yard that is going to have to be used very wisely. So for now, my modifications to the existing unfinished bodice are going to have to wait. Grrrrr.

However, the crafting gods were on my side and answered my pleas in the form of Etsy. While browsing for other stuff, I found someone selling a 1 1/2 yard remnant of the blue flocked taffeta. I quickly bought it and once it arrived and I was able to ensure that the fabrics matched - they did! - I got started with drafting.

My go-to pattern is 1885 Cuirass Bodice (TV460) from Truly Victorian since it's easy to adapt and make adjustments to. The modifications I made this time was to make the bodice back-closing and with a rounded neckline. I also extended the length of the front bodice point.

The mockup went together easily, and from there it was just making adjustments to match my waist and lack of bust. The back pieces I reused from prior projects and are therefore already adjusted to my measurements.

If there is one thing I have discovered over the years, it's that mockups are important. Because of my chest measurements, I usually end up having to take the bustline in 1"-2". Since I'm dealing with limited quantities of fabric, there really isn't a lot of room for a fudge factor.

Remapped my changes...

Rulers everywhere!

And hopefully I'll only have one more mockup to do before getting started on the project. Down to the wire now since the challenge is due Saturday.

Bodice Challenge Research

So I started out the new challenge with a bit of research on the type of bodice design I would like to make. As mentioned in a previous post, the bodice I currently have is more of a dinner style bodice. To allow for more use and opportunities, I want to make an evening bodice. About two years ago, I made a bodice with small pouf sleeves using the Truly Victorian 1885 Cuirass Bodice (TV460).

I never really finished because the sleeves were very tight and I just wasn't too keen on this bodice going with my Alexandra dress. I've looked through a number of fashions plates and I just can't seem to find anything with this sleeve style. Initially I was thinking of taking this bodice apart and trying to use some supplies from the bodice for a new one. However, after going through my books, I'm thinking I might be able to redo the sleeves, do some add-ons, and make a different bodice with the brown shantung as the base.

For example, I found these ideas in my Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 and Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889, both by Frances Grimble.

From Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 by Frances Grimble

From Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 by Frances Grimble

From Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 by Frances Grimble

Right now, I'm liking bodice #2 with the lace and ribbons because it's something that I can work into the existing square neckline and I can make new sleeves that will easily attach to the existing bodice.

Now onto the the actual evening bodice that I wanted to make. This one I was a bit torn on. These are my fabrics (the blue is actually darker) - a chocolate brown shantung silk and a dusty blue taffeta with flocked brown polka dots.

What I couldn't decide on was whether I wanted to make a brown bodice with blue accents, or a blue polka dot bodice with some brown accents. A lot of the fashion plates I was looking through had solid colored bodices, not prints. Then I found this little gem:

From Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazar by Stella Blum

Yay polka dots on an evening bodice! I pulled out my sketchbook and did some rough (I am not an artist) drawings on what I would like to accomplish. 

 

I've done my measurements, and I think I have enough of the fabric for an evening bodice. The shantung is something they readily carry at the fabric store and I will need to pick up more later this week. If I don't have enough of the blue taffeta, I may look at doing a bodice with some panels of brown on the side, similar to how this one has been done.

From La Mode Illustree by JoAnne Olian

In the meantime, I'm going to start looking at trims to use for the dinner bodice neckline and doing some pattern drafting for a back-closing evening bodice.