Hidden Killers of the Victorian/Edwardian Home review

As I work through some of the finishing touches of my bathing costume, I've been watching oodles of shows to pass the time. I found this via my recommended shows list from my watching history on Amazon Prime.

"The dawn of the 20th century ushered in an era of fresh inventions and innovations: Electricity, refrigeration and many other materials promised to make life easier and more convenient. But lack of understanding meant that they frequently led to death."

Short History of Can-can

As I've been working on my dresses, my interest has been piqued in where the original dance came from, so I've been doing a bit of research.

Modern can-can dancers via Pinterest

The can-can first appeared around the 1830s, originating from a form of the galop dance, which was actually danced by couples. The galop is a fast dance. Named after the gait of a horse, it is done in a fast 2/4 time. During the dance, couples would perform high kicks and gestures with their arms and legs. Because of this, couples were brought in close contact with each other - closer than what was deemed "acceptable" by Victorian standards - lending to its scandalous origins.

Originally, the dance was done by large numbers of men at dance halls. As performers of the dance became more skilled, the can-can graduated from being a dance performed by couples, to a participatory form of entertainment done in dance halls. It wasn't until the 1860s to 1870s however, that it became more popularized by women and was developed into a dance for a single chorus line.

Many of these women were middle-class courtesans and semi-professional entertainers during these early years. During the 1890s though, professionals emerged, such as Jane Avril and La Goulue, who were well paid for performances at particular venues. The most well-known of these venues is the Moulin Rouge.

Moulin Rouge 1900 via Wikipedia

Established in 1889, the Moulin Rouge is best known for being the birthplace of the modern can-can dance. The Moulin had many visitors, including the Prince of Wales (future King Edward VII) in 1890 and the artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

Toulouse-Lautrec was a frequent visitor to the Moulin, and created paintings and posters for the dance hall and of the dancers who worked there.

Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1891)

Jane Avril Dancing (1892)

Much of what we know about the can-can, with it's highly choreographed dance steps and high kicks, was developed more recently. This highly stylized French version of the can-can lasts about ten minutes and involves the high kick or battement, the ronde de jambe (quick rotary movements of the lower leg with the knee raised and the skirt held up), the port d'armes (turning on one leg while grasping the other), the cartwheel, and the grand ecart (the flying or jump splits). The authentic quadrille-based can-can is very demanding in its moves and performers must have good stamina, rhythm, and balance.

The dancer La Goulue

Part of the can-can's erotic history (aside from Victorian couples standing WAY to close together) stems from the attire the women wore. The most popular costume of the can-can dancer was the wide, circular skirt with layers of frilled ruffles underneath. These ruffles were supposed to simulate the layers of petticoats usually seen underneath women's dresses and skirts of the time period. Underneath, the dancers would wear black stockings and shorter drawers.

The high kicks and dance steps would require the dancers to lift their skirts and then flashes of leg in the contrasting stockings could be seen underneath. Some of the dancers would even bend over and throw their skirts over their backs, presenting their bottom to the audience.

Image via Pinterest

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This short history is conglomerated together through different Websites I read through while trying to find more info. I do not know how much is fact vs. fiction, but I hope this provides a little enlightenment on the subject.

Secrets of... series review

I've been so busy with sewing that I've fallen horribly behind on my reviews. In addition, I kind of had to work my way through this series before I could actually write a review. The first video I remember watching sometime last year (before I even started this blog), and the most recent was only a couple weeks ago.

Each of the episodes are between 60-90 minutes long, but chock full of history and information. I'll try to highlight the main subject of each and the topics of interest they cover.

Secrets of the Manor House
This takes an in-depth look at the country manor houses of England's aristocracy around the turn of the century. Good for those who are interested in Victorian and Edwardian history, the American Buccaneers, or the TV shows Upstairs Downstairs and Downton Abbey.

Secrets of Highclere Castle
Following in the wake Downton Abbey is this episode which covers the history of Highclere Castle (the real-life estate that stands in for Downton) and its inhabitants. It covers the history of the castle's designs and changes, the lives and adventures of the owners (both prior and most recent), and of the people who help to maintain the property in the modern age. Recommended viewing for anyone loves Downton Abbey, or those who like manor house history.

Secrets of Chatsworth
In the same strain of English manor houses is this episode about Chatsworth. Home of the Devonshire family, this also covers the history of the property and its occupants, touching upon notable individuals such as Georgiana Devonshire (the Georgiana of The Duchess). Good for those with interests in Georgiana or manor houses.

Secrets of Althorp: The Spencers
This episode focuses on the Spencer family, which still resides at the estate. Charles, the 9th Earl, narrates most of the program and goes over its history and prior inhabitants. Most notable is his sister Diana, the late Princess of Wales. This episode is best for those with an interest in the Spencer family or manor houses.

Secrets of Henry VIII's Palace: Hampton Court
Another house, but an entirely different one. Jumping back further in time to the 1500s, this episode visits one of King Henry VIII's favorite residences which still retains much of its original architecture. Great for those with interests in Tudor History and the English Renaissance.

Secrets of the Tower of London
It's hard to cover the entire history of this famous location in one hour, but they do a good job of catching the highlights of its history, inhabitants, and operation. It even influenced how the modern day London Bridge was built! Will interest those who like London history and Tower history in general since it spans a multitude of years.

Secrets of Selfridges
So I watched this one before I had any idea what it was and still loved it. The subject of this is pretty self-explanatory - Selfridges department store in London - and goes over the history of the store and its owner. Good bonus material for anyone watching Mr. Selfridge or even The Paradise. I haven't seen Mr. Selfridge yet, but now I want to!

Secrets of Scotland Yard
I don't know much about this topic, so it was good to help add to my knowledge base and is included since it's part of the series. This focuses on Scotland Yard's history and some its more notorious cases including the assassination attempt on Queen Victoria and Jack the Ripper, as well as modern cases. Good for those with an interest in London history, police crime, and watchers of the series Whitechapel and Sherlock.

All cover images are from Amazon.com

Some of these have more focus than others on topics that are related to Victorian and Edwardian history, but each touches upon these periods (even if it is only briefly). While I don't know yet if this is an actual "series" verses stand alone documentary episodes, I believe they're still great watches for those with the above mentioned interests and to just learn a few more secrets about some of these already famous locations.

Overall review - 4 out of 5

Corseting - Myth vs. Fact Pt. 2

A continuation of the previous post on corset myths and facts.

With these next myths, a number of the elements fell under previous headings, but the speculation behind them led me to place them in their own space. 
 

Image via Pinterest

Myth #5 - All women who wore corsets tight-laced them
Not true. While most women who could afford even a basic corset did wear one, not all women had the luxury or stamina to tight-lace. A working woman who had to rely on her mobility would not have chanced the restrictiveness of tight-lacing. An upper class or rich lady however, would have the means and ability to pursue tight-lacing if she chose.

Before we go into women who did tight-lace, we'll first cover what tight-lacing is exactly. The Victorian ideal for waist reduction was about 2"-4". Tight-lacing was even more extreme, reducing the waist by 4" or more. Rigorous training was involved with tight-lacing, usually beginning when the woman was a young girl. She would wear a corset that, over a gradual amount of time, would be reduced in size little by little. Take a look at Princess Mary of Teck's waistline. While it cannot be confirmed that she tight-laced, this was not something achieved overnight.

Image via Pinterest

When the desired waist size was achieved, it would be very hard to move around, breathing could only be done with small amounts of air since the lungs were compressed, and blood flow would be reduced to the internal organs.

Because of the extreme lengths at which the waist was reduced, it could result in health problems that were more extreme than some of the conditions mentioned in Myth #3. It also had a severe detrimental effect on the body...

(A small note on tight-lacing. I accidentally did it once while in a hurry to change into costume and forgot to measure my waist beforehand. I spend the entire morning feeling very light-headed, my ribs ached miserably, and even sitting caused pain. When I later checked, I had laced myself down to 31", I'm usually at about 33"-34".)

Myth #6 - Corsets deformed the natural body shape
Any time you alter the body in a way that it does not naturally occur, you are, in a way, deforming it. Even pierced ears are considered a way in which we alter our natural bodies. Corseting, especially tight-lacing, did the same exact thing.

Corsets molded and shaped the body to make the waist smaller. Worn on a daily basis as they were during the Victorian and Edwardian periods, the body would eventually start to retain some of the shape created by the corset. 

This illustration was used mostly by anti tight-lacing campaigners to show the effects a corset could have on a woman's body. Regular corseting may have compressed the ribcage and internal organs slightly, but not as much as tight-lacing did. Organs could end up in different locations altogether, and in some cases, the lower lungs would be compressed so badly that they would fill with mucus since the woman couldn't breathe in completely. The rib cage would be completely reshaped into a smaller form with the ribs angling more inward.

Before anyone starts to scoff and say how untrue it is, visit the Mutter Museum in Philadelphia sometime. They have on display two skeletons next to each other; one is a regular skeleton, the other is one that suffered the effects of tight-lacing. They look almost exactly like the illustration above. I would offer pictures as proof, but photography is not allowed in the museum.

The corset that was mostly responsible for the whole "deformation" issue is the Edwardian corset of the early 1900s. As fashion evolved at the turn of the century, so too did the corset that went underneath. Instead of a straight-backed hour glass figure, the awkwardly bent, S-bend became all the rage. This new figure still retained the reduced waist, but now the corset was designed to push the woman's lower backside back, and thrust her upper chest forward. The body does not naturally shape itself this way and led to increased strain on the spine.

Illustration from Ladies Home Journal, 1900

Myth #7 - Corsets were restrictive and uncomfortable
Now that we've read up a tiny bit on tight-lacing and S-bend corsets, I can certainly understand where the ideas of corsets being torture devices could come from. I believe this myth mostly surfaces from the lack of understanding about corsets though.

Corsets are restrictive. Yes, they are, I won't deny it. Remember how your grandmother always said to bend at the knees to pick things up? Your grandmother might have worn a corset once upon a time because when wearing one, there is no bending over. There is no slouching either, or quickly turning around. Basically your body is encased from hip to bust in a thick garment that has molded the body into an entirely different shape that requires careful movement to make sure that the displaced mid-section stays momentarily displaced.

Corsets are uncomfortable. No, they are not. Let me explain this one. A corset is not uncomfortable if it is fitted correctly. This is the key element here. Corsets are not a one size and design fits all type of garment. Although they are not tightly worn, a corset is like a glove that is snug over the body and molds to the individual's curves and body shape. A proper corset is designed and fitted to the individual who will be wearing it on a regular basis. If Susie takes Lisa's corset and puts it on herself, chances are it will be very uncomfortable because they do not have to the same body shape.

Here I must speak as the experienced wearer. I bought a ready made corset long ago and wore it for a long time. It was somewhat uncomfortable and while it did shape to my body after a while, it still didn't fit in certain areas (I have been gifted with almost no cleavage). I finally coughed up, bit the bullet, and made my own corset to match my body shape and measurements. What a difference! I have never experienced discomfort while wearing it, and actually enjoy wearing the corset under my costumes now. 

Myth #8 - Whew! Thank goodness the Victorian Era is over and corsets died out
Nope, corsets are still alive and well today. They of course exist because costumers/re-enactors use them to achieve a period correct look for historical clothes worn in the modern day. A number of companies and small businesses, like Orchard Corset, make ready made corsets for use as fashion pieces, shape wear, and for other costuming purposes. Some women actually prefer corsets to wear not for waist reduction purposes, but for support of the bust. While a bra places all the weight of a woman's bust on her shoulders, a corset supports it from below and the weight is placed on the corset.

Like their earlier counterpart, the whalebone stays, corsets have evolved over the years to take on different shapes. The best modern-day counterparts are the girdle and Spanx. Although neither look remotely like a corset, both take the mid-section of the body and shape it into a more desirable appearance.

Girdle from Orchard Corset

Spanx from JCPenny

Corsets also exist for modern medical purposes too. Individuals with scoliosis or internal injuries may wear a specially designed medical corset to help limit mobility in the torso and protect it.

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These are just the handful of myths that I hear most often when the subject of corsets is brought up. I certainly invite for additional input on other factoids heard throughout the years since some can be quite be amusing. I hope this has been informative and for those looking to discover more, I suggest these books:

The Corset: A Cultural History by Valerie Steele

Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset by Leigh Summers

A History of Underclothes by C. Willett Cunnington

Jujitsu Suffragettes

If you are at all like me, you probably read just the title itself and thought, "I have to know more about this."

While walking through the local library yesterday, I caught a glimpse of a more recent issue (Vol. 13, No. 12 for those interested) of the BBC History Magazine with the same title on the cover and just had to pick it up. We know about our sister suffragettes here in the states with their picketing, parades, and demonstrations, but a jujitsu suffragette? It definitely makes you want to know more, especially when it's accompanied by this illustration.

BBC History Magazine

I'll try not to make this too long-winded, but we know the basic origins of suffragettes - women who wanted equality at the polls and used various means to try and invoke a change. There were the peaceful women's advocate groups, and then there were those who were impatient for change and chose their own tactics. Enter the suffragette.

The subject of the women's vote at the turn of the century was a touchy subject, both in the states and across the pond. Often, the press would portray these ladies as "unhinged and disorganized" leading to violent reactions. For suffragettes involved in active demonstrations where crowds could quickly become unruly, they tried to fight this image by "combating any physical aggression with minimal aggression." Which meant the Edwardian hatpins were off-limits.

Others used dog-whips, but even these got a bad reputation as well, ranking up there with the hatpins and toffee hammers. Then the idea of protection via hand-to-hand combat began to surface.

Edith Garrud was an English suffragette whose husband was a jujitsu teacher and she assisted with his classes. Jujitsu became ideal because it was good for people who are smaller in stature. After a demonstration at the local chapter of the Women's Social and Political Union, the suffragettes took to the self-defense method faster than Alice Paul could yell, "Votes for Women!"

Soon, "ju-jutsuffragettes" became the new terror of the London Police. Because what's apparently worse than a rabid suffragette out for the vote? One who can defend herself, as the below cartoon from Punch implies.

BBC History Magazine

To the best of my knowledge, I have never heard of jujitsu suffragettes here in the states, so this was a rather interesting read. I've detailed the basics to hopefully give you a sample, but the full article itself is a fun and interesting read (trust the BBC to make history a cool topic). Also there's some great pictures of Ms. Garrud demonstrating how to throw a policeman to the ground in her 1910's clothing while keeping her enormous feathered hat on, yet remaining the respectable lady she was.

For the full article, check your local library or download the magazine issue to a digital device from the magazine's Website.