Collapsible Bustle Panel Tutorial

Okay so I'm finally getting around to this. One of the things I have done with my recent bustles is I sew a laced panel into the inside of the garment which allows the bustle to then collapse for easier storage (because while we all love big bustles, they do need to go somewhere when not being worn).

To start, I would like to say that I do not know how historically accurate this method is. I know some bustles had tie tapes on the inside and others have the flat panels (which this is an adaption of), but you just don't see the inside of that many bustles - outside of the wire ones - to know what the heck is going on in there. I know that the Laughing Moon Patterns uses a similar method for their bustles, but there are no notes about authenticity in the pattern packet.

 For the adaption, you'll need grommets (I use size 00), a grommet setting device, 1/4" white steel boning or industrial size plastic zip ties, and 2-3 yards of lacing ribbon.

To begin, take the inner support panel from your bustle pattern and mark the exact center.

From the center, add 1 3/4" and mark this new spot.

Now this is the tricky part. You must change the pattern piece to allow for a gap between the two panel pieces once they are laced together. Depending on how much of a gap you want, this will affect your next measurement. For a 1" gap, measure 1/2" from the center. For a 2" gap, measure 1" from the center. Just remember that whatever measurement you choose, it will double the actual gap between the panels.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND LEAVING OUT THIS CENTER GAP SINCE IT DOES NOT ALLOW FOR THE PANEL TO BE ADJUSTED ONCE TIED.

Once you've selected the size of your panel gap, move your center line to this spot, making sure to also move the added 1 3/4" on the side. This is your new pattern piece. To retain the original, trace over it using pattern paper or my personal favorite - wax paper.

Cut two pieces from the pattern, one for each side of the panel. Start by zig-zagging, overlocking, or serging the top and bottom edges of the panel pieces.

Along the center, fold the fabric over 1/4" and iron. Fold over an additional 1 1/2" and iron again. All folds should be made toward the inside, meaning the inner area of the bustle.

 Pin the material in place and stitch 1/8" from the inner edge, then stitch 1/2" from the outside edge. This creates the boning and grommet channels.

Fold up the bottom 1/2 " edge of the panel to the inside, iron, then stitch along overlocked edge.

Repeat these steps on the other panel piece.

With both panel pieces, place them side by side and space out the grommets along the grommet channel (this is the wider one at about 1"). Keep in mind that the top of the panel piece will also be folded over 1/2" as well. My spacing recommendation is about 1"-1 1/4" between each grommet. Mark then attach the grommets using your preferred method.

Once the grommets have been set, take the white steel boning or industrial zip ties and measure then cut them to fit the length of the boning channel. For the zip ties, round and smooth the tips to keep them from poking through the material.

Insert into the channel, fold over 1/2" toward the inside and stitch in place the top of the panel pieces.

 This forms your two panel pieces which you sew into the seams following your regular sewing instructions. Once the bustle is finished, lace the panels together as closely as you desire. When you are ready to store the bustle, simply unlace it.

For larger bustles, you may choose to make two sets of panels to be laced and adjusted separately.


NOTE: Red fabric is from my 1880s Bustle, and purple fabric is from my early 1870s bustle. Some of the photos taken were easier to do with the red bustle.

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Feel free to leave any questions you might have and I hope this proves helpful for your bustle projects!

Saga of a Bodice

So before starting a project, it is advised that you check your fabric stash rather than assuming you have what you think. Why? Because "I'm pretty certain I have almost two yards" quickly becomes "Crap, I only have chunks of fabric that are maybe a yard."

Remaining chunks of flocked taffeta from the prior projects

Yeah, and the brown shantung fabric that the fabric store usually carries? Guess what they discontinued a couple months ago? So all I have is maybe 2/3 of a yard that is going to have to be used very wisely. So for now, my modifications to the existing unfinished bodice are going to have to wait. Grrrrr.

However, the crafting gods were on my side and answered my pleas in the form of Etsy. While browsing for other stuff, I found someone selling a 1 1/2 yard remnant of the blue flocked taffeta. I quickly bought it and once it arrived and I was able to ensure that the fabrics matched - they did! - I got started with drafting.

My go-to pattern is 1885 Cuirass Bodice (TV460) from Truly Victorian since it's easy to adapt and make adjustments to. The modifications I made this time was to make the bodice back-closing and with a rounded neckline. I also extended the length of the front bodice point.

The mockup went together easily, and from there it was just making adjustments to match my waist and lack of bust. The back pieces I reused from prior projects and are therefore already adjusted to my measurements.

If there is one thing I have discovered over the years, it's that mockups are important. Because of my chest measurements, I usually end up having to take the bustline in 1"-2". Since I'm dealing with limited quantities of fabric, there really isn't a lot of room for a fudge factor.

Remapped my changes...

Rulers everywhere!

And hopefully I'll only have one more mockup to do before getting started on the project. Down to the wire now since the challenge is due Saturday.

Bodice Challenge Research

So I started out the new challenge with a bit of research on the type of bodice design I would like to make. As mentioned in a previous post, the bodice I currently have is more of a dinner style bodice. To allow for more use and opportunities, I want to make an evening bodice. About two years ago, I made a bodice with small pouf sleeves using the Truly Victorian 1885 Cuirass Bodice (TV460).

I never really finished because the sleeves were very tight and I just wasn't too keen on this bodice going with my Alexandra dress. I've looked through a number of fashions plates and I just can't seem to find anything with this sleeve style. Initially I was thinking of taking this bodice apart and trying to use some supplies from the bodice for a new one. However, after going through my books, I'm thinking I might be able to redo the sleeves, do some add-ons, and make a different bodice with the brown shantung as the base.

For example, I found these ideas in my Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 and Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889, both by Frances Grimble.

From Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 by Frances Grimble

From Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 by Frances Grimble

From Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 by Frances Grimble

Right now, I'm liking bodice #2 with the lace and ribbons because it's something that I can work into the existing square neckline and I can make new sleeves that will easily attach to the existing bodice.

Now onto the the actual evening bodice that I wanted to make. This one I was a bit torn on. These are my fabrics (the blue is actually darker) - a chocolate brown shantung silk and a dusty blue taffeta with flocked brown polka dots.

What I couldn't decide on was whether I wanted to make a brown bodice with blue accents, or a blue polka dot bodice with some brown accents. A lot of the fashion plates I was looking through had solid colored bodices, not prints. Then I found this little gem:

From Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazar by Stella Blum

Yay polka dots on an evening bodice! I pulled out my sketchbook and did some rough (I am not an artist) drawings on what I would like to accomplish. 

 

I've done my measurements, and I think I have enough of the fabric for an evening bodice. The shantung is something they readily carry at the fabric store and I will need to pick up more later this week. If I don't have enough of the blue taffeta, I may look at doing a bodice with some panels of brown on the side, similar to how this one has been done.

From La Mode Illustree by JoAnne Olian

In the meantime, I'm going to start looking at trims to use for the dinner bodice neckline and doing some pattern drafting for a back-closing evening bodice.